One Day in Onomichi Itinerary: Japan’s Overlooked Seaside Town

Looking for ideas to put together a one day Onomichi itinerary? Since 2017 I’ve been helping my readers better blend in by sharing the lesser-known sides of Japan, and an Onomichi day trip is no exception!

Easily accessible on the way between Kyoto and Hiroshima, Onomichi is still considered to be a bit off the beaten track in Japan as is often overlooked by foreign tourists — despite passing right by it on bullet trains to more well-known spots.

With centuries-old temples clinging to rocky ledges above the scenic port town, Onomichi is a great little stop to spend a day for lovers of art, cats, traditional architecture, ramen, temple hopping and more, all without having to venture too far off Japan’s overcrowded Golden Route.

Additionally, the breathtaking scenery surrounding the Seto Inland Sea is some of the country’s most favoured by cyclists, as it’s a perfect starting point for the Shimanami Kaido. This elevated cycling route weaves through six islands spanning 70 kilometres before finishing in Shikoku.

How to get to Onomichi Japan

Onomichi is accessible via Fukuyama Station on the Tokaido-Sanyo shinkansen line, a bullet train that runs from Tokyo all the way through Kyoto/Osaka and down to Hiroshima.

Kyoto/Osaka to Onomichi Japan

• Osaka: Take a Sakura train on the Tokaido-Sanyo shinkansen line from Shin Osaka Station to JR Fukuyama Station, then switch to the local San-yo line. Take the local Mihara train to JR Onomichi Station. Total travel time approx 2 hours. Cost: approx 9500 yen one way.
• Kyoto: If travelling from Kyoto Station, replace Shin-Osaka Station with Kyoto Station as the instructions are the same (no need to change trains there), but add an extra 15 mins to your journey.

Hiroshima to Onomichi Japan

• Take a Nozomi shinkansen on the Tokaido-Sanyo shinkansen line from Hiroshima Station to JR Fukuyama Station, then switch to the local San-yo line. Take the local Mihara train to JR Onomichi Station. Total travel time approx 1 hour 10 mins. Cost: approx 5500 yen one way.

TIP: This journey is free if using a Japan Rail Pass. Be sure to calculate whether the cost will be worth it for your own itinerary before purchasing. If so, you can purchase online in advance here as they are more expensive in Japan.

TIP: Learn the meanings of Japan train symbols in Google Maps here to take the confusion out of navigating.

Things to do in Onomichi Japan: One day itinerary

So, why is Onomichi worth visiting? 

Onomichi was an important commercial hub during the Edo Period (1603 – 1868). From shipmaking, manufacturing, agriculture to fishery, there are remnants of the town’s past in this picturesque port town today.

With its small population steadily declining in recent years since 1975, Onomichi is welcoming to visitors amongst all the talk of overtourism elsewhere in the country.

Be sure to support some small local businesses during your visit to help keep the charm alive! Here are some ideas for spending one day in Onomichi.

Start off at the Senko-ji Temple Mountain Ropeway

From Onomichi Station, make your way over to the Senko-ji Mountain Ropeway. An easy way to do this is to walk through the Onomichi Hondori Shopping Arcade (more on this down the page) then make a left over the train tracks towards Ushitori Shrine 艮神社（うしとらじんじゃ).

Located beside the Tourism Information Centre, purchase ropeway tickets and join the queue. The ropeway ride itself only lasts 3 minutes, but ascends quite a steep incline and the views over the port below are breathtaking! Cost: Adults 500 yen ea

Enjoy panoramic views over the Seto Inland Sea at Senko-ji Park Observatory

Now, what to do in Onomichi? Start at the Senko-ji Park Observatory before heading downhill to the temples!

At the ropeway’s summit, this new, concrete spiral walkway to a lengthy observation deck is one of the best places to enjoy uninterrupted views over Onomichi.

TIP: Visiting Japan in spring? This is one of Japan’s best 100 cherry blossom viewing areas, so be sure to not miss it!

Aside from being the starting point for the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, the Onomichi Temple Walk is a favourite attraction here for visitors.

Learn the legends behind Senko-ji Temple

Located on Mt Daiho’s steep edges 140 metres above the town below, Senko-ji Temple was founded in 806 AD. It’s believed to be a match-making temple and features old Buddhist statues carved into enormous rocks.

There are many components that make up this picturesque area, one of my favourites being the Shoro Bell Tower and its Daruma ema a few steps away.

Beneath the ropeway cables, you’ll see a pyramid-shaped boulder with a sphere atop its peak, named Tami no Iwa. Legend says a jewel was once embedded in this boulder that shone at night, but it was stolen. Today the sphere represents where the jewel was and it is illuminated in colours at night.

Senko-ji also features an area of stones named Kagami Iwa, with solid chains cascading down their sides to assist monks with climbing training. The view from its peak at Ishizuchi Gongen Shrine is more elevated than from the Shoro Bell Tower and main hall. I wasn’t keen to climb it, but perhaps you will be braver than me!

Keep an eye out for the Meoto Iwa (married couple rocks) and Tsuzami Iwa (drumming rock), that sound just like a Japanese taiko drum when lightly pounded with the installed mallet.

Opening Hours: 9:00 – 17:00 daily

Admire the scenery and zen along the Onomichi Temple Walk

Beginning at Senko-ji Temple and connecting 25 temples along a walking route meandering through narrow hillside and residential streets, you may not have time to get through the entire Onomichi Temple Walk. I can suggest prioritising:

• Tennei-ji Temple – Dating back to 1367, its famed pagoda is an Important Cultural Property and an icon of Onomichi. Inside there are over five hundred small Buddhist statues.
  TIP: This pagoda was a sketching spot for Hirayama Ikuo, a popular artist who drew in traditional style.
• Saikoku-ji Temple – Founded in the 8th century, its Niomon Gate is adorned with 2-metre high straw sandals representative of pilgrims.  Popular cherry blossom viewing spot in spring.
• Taisan-ji Temple – Founded during the middle of the Heian Period (794 – 185), it’s dedicated to the god of learning. A great place to wish for luck in upcoming exams and studies. 
• Jiko-ji Temple – Has an entrance that takes on the appearance of a stone bunker. Is a favoured spot for viewing autumn colours.

TIP: Alternatively, you can follow the city’s recommended Seven Temple Course, which takes around 3 hours. You can also take a detour to the Onomichi City Museum of Art.

Hunt down some furry friends along Cat Alley

Lined with leafy trees and marked by a stack of wooden arrows beside a beckoning maneki-neko sign is an alley behind Tennei-ji Temple, named Neko no Hosomichi (Cat Alley).

While I didn’t see any living felines during my visit, there are all kinds of cats creatively painted and incorporated into natural cracks in the pavements, decorated cat pebbles, miniature cat shrines, and even a Maneki Neko Museum — find out how to make your own down the page!

Shop for souvenirs along a retro shopping arcade

Running for 1.6 kilometres parallel to the shoreline and mountains, Hondori Shopping Street is a retro shotengai (undercover shopping arcade) that is fun to explore.

Consisting of all small mum-and-dad type stores featuring everything from clothing and shoes, homewares, books, sweets and small eateries, there is plenty of cat themed artwork to be enjoyed along here too.

Tuck into some tasty local specialties

Ramen is the favoured dish amongst visitors to Onomichi. So much so you can see them queuing up from 11am at the most popular eateries.

If you’re not in the mood for queuing for lunch, you can try:

• Onomichi Nidosando 尾道 にどさんど – Seriously thick and delicious Japanese fried chicken sandwiches with homemade tartare or red hot sauces. Honestly, I am not a big eater and could have definitely shared one sandwich between two people! They also sell mochi fruit sandwiches and Japanese style bento lunch bowls.
  • TIP: Nidosando is difficult to find on Google Maps, but it is near the Senkoji Ropeway ticket office downtown and directly opposite a cafe called Galetterie Common.
• Oyatsu to Yamaneko おやつとやまねこ 本店 – Unmistakable red-and-white striped awning out front, specialising in sweet pudding made from local cow’s milk and eggs and served with a lemon sauce. They also sell other baked goods, a distinctive cat logo keeping in with the neko name.
• Wildcat Cafe Yamaneko 尾道チーズケーキ専門店 やまね – Not to be mistaken for the pudding store above, this dine-in cafe creates cat decorated drinks and specialises in all kinds of cheesecakes. Yum!

Make your own maneki-neko souvenir

Want to take home your own handmade souvenir from Onomichi? These cute cat amulets are some of my favourite Japanese souvenirs! So why not have a go at painting your personal maneki-neko (lucky waving cat) in a special local workshop?

Since 2019, Komono Maneki-Neko Kobo has been offering workshops for all ages for visitors to take the luck of Onomichi’s maneki-neko home with them. 
Opening Hours: Weekdays 10:00 – 13:00, 3 sessions daily on weekends and public holidays.

TIP: As soon as you know you’ll be visiting Onomichi, be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment if possible (some dates sell out a few months beforehand!)

Take part in a fun local festival

Onomichi hosts several matsuri (traditional festival) events per year. See if any Onomichi festivals will coincide with your trip and get involved!

I’ve listed the matsuri and their corresponding official website below:

Stroll along the Footprint Path back to Onomichi Station

Onomichi was once a magnet for creative types, such as painters, poets, writers, musicians, directors, and art critics amongst others. Akin to the Hollywood Walk of Fame in the USA, Onomichi has a miniature version dedicated to local creatives from over a century ago to modern times.

Keep an eye out for the Fumiko Hayashi Statue, a struggling writer from Onomichi in 1938 who had her breakthrough into the industry with her novel, The Wanderer. The name of this street is Nagaeguchi-dori.

OPTIONAL: Discover the beauty of the Shimanami Kaido

As mentioned earlier, Onomichi is an attractive destination for visitors beginning the Shimanami Kaido cycling route over the Kurushima Bridges to Shikoku island. Whether you’d like to try cycling or even a boat cruise around this area, here are some options for part or full day trips:

• Private Shimanami Kaido 3 hour cycling tour course from Onomichi →
• Shimanami Kaido 5 hour sightseeing tour by E-bike →
• Onomichi to Imabari full day cycling tour →
• Shimanami Kaido 2 day cycling tour from Onomichi →
• Private 4 hour boat cruise along the Shimanami Kaido (Seto Inland Sea) including lunch →
• Full-day private Shimanami Kaido E-Bike ＆cruise tour →

Where to stay in Onomichi Hiroshima

I had booked what was advertised as a boutique hotel with rooms, but unfortunately on arrival realised it was an entire Airbnb property without any staff. I have reasons why I prefer not to use Airbnb, so I was quite annoyed that this deceptive listing even fooled me. I would never have booked it otherwise.

Now I’ve explored the town and know what to expect, I would choose different accommodation next time. I recommend either:

• Hotel Beacon Onomichi for views over the trains, rooftops and hillside or harbour (closest to Onomichi Station) 
• Sakura Hotel Onomichi at the station for seafront views, opening windows (not always possible in Japan), washing facilities if needed
• Mange Tak Resort Onomichi for mountain views, rooftop terrace, a moment’s walk to Shotengai (undercover shopping arcade).

TIP: If you are doing an Onomichi day trip from Hiroshima, from my 3 visits I recommend staying in either RIHGA Royal Hotel (my favourite), Washington Hotel or KIRO Hotel (for groups/families) all in central Hiroshima. My guide to things to do in Hiroshima city beyond the Peace Park has you covered, too!

Concluding this Onomichi Japan guide & itinerary

This concludes our fun day exploring Onomichi Japan in Hiroshima Prefecture! From scenic vantage points, ancient temples, creative artworks, fascinating history and more, Onomichi is bound to inspire the creativity hidden in everyone.

Whether you’re just wanting to leisurely explore the treasures to be found in the steep hillsides, are planning on journeying through the Onomichi cycling route or even taking a relaxing boat cruise, there is something here to suit every travel style. 

Onomichi was first recommended to me a few years ago by local guide Norma during my Shibuya street food tour, and I’m so glad I finally made it! What do you think of this Onomichi travel guide? When are you planning to visit Onomichi? If you have any questions, feel free to ask away in the comments below.

Find more lesser-known destinations like this beyond the Golden Route on my detailed Japan travel blog, including my ultimate guide to planning a trip to Japan to cover all your bases. Know the essentials for what to pack for Japan, or learn some Japanese phrases for tourists with my FREE cheat sheet so you’re set the moment you arrive and much more!

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Until next time,

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