14 Day Hokkaido Itinerary: Winter Ski Trip & Snowy Gems

Planning your Hokkaido itinerary to include a fun Japan winter ski trip? Sometimes the most challenging part can be finding places and activities to suit all ages and skill levels, but my personal first time itinerary for Hokkaido below removes the guesswork.

As an Australian travelling to Japan since 2014, I thought long and hard about where to take my family for a ski holiday. I wanted everything to be amazing, and as easy as possible! Throughout the itinerary I’ll explain why I made the choices I did, which will save you the stress of figuring out all the complexities yourself.

My two week itinerary is ideal for couples, groups and families with children varying in age from toddlers to teens. I’ll share what worked for my family and I, important tips, plus what I’d suggest you change based on my experiences.

Due to lengthy travel times, Hokkaido is not a place we want to rush. For skiing at popular and lesser-known spots, an ice village, finding cute winter wildlife, warming up in onsen, delicious local cuisine, spectacular winter scenery and everything in between, your exciting 2 week Hokkaido adventure begins here!

14 Day Hokkaido Itinerary for a Winter Ski Trip

This winter Hokkaido itinerary for first timers begins and concludes at New Chitose Airport, covering 5 nights in Niseko (with 3 days of skiing), 1 day in Otaru (day trip from Niseko), 3 nights in Sapporo (with a day trip option), and 5 nights in Tomamu (with 4 days of skiing). You can adjust the number of days to suit you.

When it comes to accommodation in the ski resorts, I can’t recommend ski-in-ski-out enough. It does cost more, but the convenience of having a ski valet inside your hotel saves so much time and energy over lugging ski gear around!

Hokkaido culinary specialties to try: Butter miso ramen, Hokkaido milk (and cheese/dairy in general), cheesecake, cheese ice cream, seafood (king crab, salmon roe, shellfish). My favourite souvenirs are Kanro’s Gold Milk hard candies.

Ok – Let’s jump into the itinerary, beginning at Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport.

DAY 1: Transit to Niseko

Welcome to Hokkaido! From New Chitose Airport, the journey to Niseko is around 3 hours on the JR Rapid Airport and JR Hakodate train lines. This includes a transfer at Otaru Station.

I stayed at Niseko’s Grand Hirafu Village. Its closest station is Kutchan Station on the Hakodate line, then Grand Hirafu Village is about 15 mins drive from here.

TIP: Check the JR timetable in Google Maps to plan ahead as these trains do not run frequently. More info here. Don’t plan anything else for this day (except picking up ski gear in the evening) to allow for any delays with trains due to weather conditions.

If needing ski lessons, I suggest booking yours for the first day after your arrival (Day 2). Your ski pass will activate from the day you entered when booking, so pick it up the afternoon before. You’ll need it to access the lifts during ski lessons.

DAYS 2 – 5: Niseko

With a sister to Mt Fuji called Mt Yotei on the horizon, Niseko is a remote town in western Hokkaido known globally for “Japow” (Japan Powder snow) thanks to its unique geographical location. 

Spend your three full days here hitting the slopes and having an amazing time! The area comprises four ski fields: Annupuri, Niseko Village Resort, Tokyu Grand Hirafu and Hanazono.

I chose to stay at Grand Hirafu as some friends had recommended it. The surrounding town is also larger than the others, with the most options for restaurants and a village-like atmosphere. Here is the Niseko United ski trail map.

TIP: The Niseko United Pass allows access to the four ski fields, which are accessible by chairlifts to the summit, and by bus. More about the best time to buy this down the page.

My honest thoughts on Niseko

• For families with elementary aged children, I’d perhaps suggest skipping Niseko. While it was fine for my family, it is very busy and feels more suited to advanced skiers/snowboarders.
• It’s packed with my fellow Australians, which is not necessarily a bad thing or a surprise, but it made us feel as though we weren’t really in Japan.
• Food is much more expensive in Niseko than other parts of Japan, catering to the tourist market rather than locals. We paid 9000 yen for four toasted sandwiches and four hot drinks one lunchtime!
• At the end of our trip we all concluded we would rather have spent longer in Tomamu instead down the page. However, I think Niseko would be fine with teens.

TIP: Each day we saved money on food in Niseko by having a big breakfast at the buffet. We ate a light lunch or snack in our room, then went to an early dinner at 5pm to skip the crowds. After dinner we headed to a konbini such as SeicoMart or Lawson to buy the next day’s lunch and snacks to keep in our room (there is a microwave and fridge).

OPTIONAL: Otaru Day Trip 

After three full days of skiing in Niseko, your ankles may welcome a break from ski boots! Day 4 takes us to the charming 19th century port town of Otaru.

Known for its scenic canal, super-fresh seafood, glassware, music box manufacturing and traditional sweets, Otaru is a popular day trip from Sapporo. But it’s actually faster to reach from Niseko in 1 hour 20 mins by train, from Kutchan Station.

Things to do in Otaru

• Start off at Sumiyoshi-jinja coated in snow, the guardian shrine of Otaru.
• Walk to the picturesque Sakimachi Street, lined with cute buildings from the Meiji (1868 – 1912), Taisho (1912-1926), and Showa Periods (1926 – 1989).
• See a glass-making workshop at Taisho Glass Pavilion.
• Pick up an adorable shima-enaga trinket at the Fine Craft glassware shop.
• See glass artworks at Kitaichi Venezia Museum.
• Admire the craftsmanship at the Stained Glass Museum and the Music Box Museum.
• Take a canal cruise along the Otaru Canal.
• Walk along Otaru Denuki Koji alley for ramen and Showa Period vibes.

TIP: Otaru is very popular with tourists from east Asia, so expect many tour groups. I wasn’t expecting it to be as busy as it was, unfortunately. 

DAYS 6 – 7: Sapporo

To break up our skiing days between Niseko and Tomamu, this Hokkaido itinerary allows for a few days’ break in Sapporo.

It will take around 3 hours to reach Sapporo from Niseko, so get an early start. Your options to get there are:

• Hotel shuttle/ taxi to Kutchan Station, transfer at Otaru, then train to Sapporo;
• Private transfer all the way from Niseko hotel to Sapporo.

If you’re concerned about train cancellations, book a private transfer. We used KS Limousine (our hotel in Niseko used them). I definitely recommend them! Our driver grew up in Niseko and drove us the 2 hour 20 min journey safely. More details about my Niseko to Sapporo private transfer here.

Where to stay in Sapporo

I chose the Twin Room with Bunk Beds and Terrace at Sapporo Hotel by Granbell for my family of four. It’s 7 mins walk to Sapporo Station, with a snowy outdoor terrace so we could enjoy some fresh air and leave our drinks to chill in the snow for a laugh. It isn’t overly spacious but did the job. 

A Family Mart is attached to the hotel downstairs. While we didn’t use the gym or semi open-air bath on the 25th floor, we all enjoyed the views and snacks from the comfy lounge area from there. A coin laundry for guests is also a plus.

Things to do in Sapporo

• Drop your bags at the hotel and head straight to Mt Moiwa Ropeway. Seeing the region blanketed in snow all the way to the ocean is breathtaking! It’s believed the adorable shima enaga can be found up here, although to my despair I didn’t see any.
• Swing past the Suskino area to see the famous Nikka Whiskey Sign. In 1918, its founder was a student and invited to Scotland to learn whiskey production (can you imagine that journey back then?!). This later set the stage on his return for the birth of Nikka Whiskey in 1934. This intersection can be likened to a mini Shibuya Crossing. Plenty of shops around too, it has a similar vibe to Ginza in Tokyo.
• Visit the Sapporo TV Tower Observation Deck. I enjoyed finding locations for the different layers for the stamp rally around the tower, a great little challenge for kids and adults alike.
• Spot the Sapporo Clock Tower, an icon of the city and is now a museum.
• Feeling hungry? Visit Ramen Alley, the first area in Hokkaido to produce this delicious dish in 1951. The perfect place to sample a bowl of butter miso ramen I mentioned earlier!
• If you love visiting temples and shrines as I do, don’t miss Suwa Shrine. It’s known as the shima-enaga shrine (Japanese snow fairy bird – yes, they are real!) I picked up the most adorable omamori here. It’s also a nice spot for Hatsumode if you’re visiting in January.
• If you visit Sapporo in February, the Sapporo Snow Festival will be a must-see event! What once began with some school childing building snow sculptures in the park in 1950 has become the city’s largest winter event. The festival showcasing dozens of ice sculptures attracts 2 million visitors annually!

DAY 8: Day trip from Sapporo

I’ll give you a few options for day trips from Sapporo, or you can combine a few:

• Jozenkai Onsen – A small hot spring town in Shikotsu-Toya National Park, famed for beautiful winter scenery. A free footbath and Jozenkai Shrine are lovely to visit.
• Hill of the Buddha – 14 metre tall Buddha set in an open-roofed dome, surrounded by other interesting landmarks such as replicas of Stonehenge and Easter Island’s Moai statues at Makomanai Takino Cemetery.
• Sapporo Outer Seafood Market – 60 stores specialising in selling the freshest locally-caught seafood, it’s also known as the Curb Market. There are eateries here where you can sample all kinds of crab, sashimi, salmon roe, shellfish and even sea urchin (non-seafood options also available). 
• Hokkaido Shrine – Its cross-beam roof reminding me a lot of Izumo Taisha in Shimane Prefecture, Hokkaido-jinja is very popular for Hatsumode. It enshrines four deities that are believed to have helped in the development of Sapporo city from 1869.
• Shiroi Koibito Park – Designed in a central-European village feel, this is a chocolate factory and sweets theme park rolled into one. The New Year illuminations are very festive!
• Sapporo Beer Museum – Trace the origins of this famous beer brand back to 1876. I especially liked all the Showa Period posters and the evolution of its logo over the decades. You can enjoy a beer at a restaurant downstairs in their Beer Hall (ages 20+).
• Lake Toya – With stunning views of Mt Yotei on a clear day, this lake was formed 110,000 years ago by a caldera. Small islands make for gorgeous scenery, especially at sunset. Hot springs are active around Toyako Onsen.
• Noboribetsu – Hokkaido’s most famous hot spring resort, it’s also known as Hell Valley for its geothermal appearance and steam escaping from the ground.
• Shirogane Blue Pond – The colour of this pond is an otherworldly shade of blue, containing natural colloidal aluminum hydroxide. It’s illuminated in the winter evenings.
• Mount Hakodate – The southernmost city in Hokkaido, Hakodate’s star-shaped moat surrounded by cherry blossoms may be preferable to visit during spring.

DAYS 9 – 13: Tomamu

Now onto my favourite part of this entire itinerary, a literal winter wonderland that’s lesser-known amongst Western tourists!

The Tomamu area in central Hokkaido is home to three fantastic ski resorts suitable for families and skiers of all levels. Unlike Niseko, it still feels like Japan (and I say this as an Aussie, hehe). 

Think roasted marshmallows by a fire, ice skating and ice sculptures, indoor wave pool, outdoor onsen overlooking snow, fantastic ski runs suitable for all ages and abilities, numerous restaurants, plus many outdoor snow activities… Tomamu is the place to be!

How to get from Sapporo to Tomamu

• Sapporo Station to Tomamu Station is about 1.5 hours direct journey on the Ozora train line, then about 10 mins bus ride to one of the resorts. 
• Tomamu Station itself is not manned, however buses for the three snow resorts here are coordinated to pick up and drop off staying guests.
• Three major ski resorts here – Club Med Tomamu, Hoshino The Towers Tomamu and Hoshino Risonare Tomamu.

TIP: When arriving at Tomamu Station, hop on the bus that goes to your designated resort. Your luggage will be transported separately.

Where to stay in Tomamu

As I couldn’t get a private in-room onsen in Niseko (booked too late!) I opted for Hoshino Risonare Tomamu’s Suite Room: 100sqm with stunning views over the mountains, in-room hot tub AND sauna, two bedrooms, living space. I was over the moon with this choice, what a treat to splurge on!

TIP: The Risonare hotel towers are dark burgundy in colour, not to be confused with the green ones called The Towers. Make sure you ski back to the right accommodation.

NOTE: Mina Mina Beach, Kirin no Yu outdoor onsen and the Ice Village (down the page) are shared with guests of Club Med Tomamu. Here are some other accommodation options in Tomamu.

What I loved about staying at Hoshino Resorts Risonare Tomamu

• Included daily buffet breakfast
• Included ski lift pass for the duration of the stay
• Included entry to the Ice Village
• Included entry to Mina Mina Beach indoor wave pool & Kirin no Yu outdoor onsen (if you enjoy onsen, please do not miss this overlooking the snow!)
• In room sauna and hot tub overlooking the mountains
• Ski-in and indoor Ski Valet to leave gear overnight
• Ski-in restaurants on Hotalu Street and Mount Cafe SOL on the mountain
• Ski gear rental on site (no need to pre-book, around 3500 yen per person/day for boots, skis and poles).

TIP: Ski boots need to be taken back to your room after each day. Lockers are not available.

Things to do in Tomamu

Spend your five days here skiing two mountains and trying different activities! Your lift pass is active from the moment you arrive and day you check out. Here is the Tomamu ski trail map.

Options for other activities around the resort (extra fees):

• Cloud ice cream at the Kumo cafe
• Ice skating
• Drinks at the Ice Bar
• Horse riding 
• Snow sledding/karting/mobiling
• Lake picnic and ice fishing
• Show shoeing and hiking
• Stand up paddleboarding.

My favourite part of the runs was the Forest Maze in the Adventure Mountain section (navigating through trees for beginners), and huge jumps just before it – such a blast! My family and I were sad to leave, we made so many wonderful memories together.

NOTE: Some of the facilities are connected by an indoor “Sky Tunnel” walk. I swear this tunnel felt colder than outside, bring a good jacket along. We saw a man walking in a T-shirt and was clearly regretting his life choices!

DAY 14: Tomamu to New Chitose Airport

Here are important tips know when heading back to New Chitose Airport from Tomamu:

• A day before checking out, book in your departure time with the front desk. A bus will collect you and your luggage bound for Tomamu Station.
• Tomamu Station is not manned and there is no ticket machine. All seats are reserved. A night or two before departure, purchase your train tickets from the JR ticket machine inside Hoshino Resort The Towers (green towers) from Tomamu Station all the way to New Chitose Airport. Credit card payments are accepted.
• Tomamu Station has no lift, so you’ll need to carry your luggage up and down stairs to the platform.
• At Tomamu Station, head inside to check the carriage your seats are in on your ticket and queue up on the platform to the corresponding letter (refer to photo down the page).
• The journey from Tomamu Station to New Chitose Airport takes around 1.5 hours with a transfer at Minami-Chitose Station.
• New Chitose Airport itself is like a small city, with countless shopping and dining options, museums, and observation deck to spend the time. It seems to me there is no such thing as arriving too early here.

TIP: At the airport, do eat and shop before passing through security, as there is not much airside except a small Lawson!

Concluding this Hokkaido winter itinerary 

Perhaps before now you wondered, “Is Hokkaido worth visiting for a snow trip?” My answer to this is a resounding yes!

How many days in Hokkaido is up to you, and my itinerary above can adjusted to suit your budget. Comparing both ski resorts I stayed at, Tomamu is not as busy as Niseko, with wider runs and more variety for beginners. I’d recommend spending longer in Tomamu, if you’re able!

While you’re here, I have more tried-and-tested recommendations for spending winter Japan (and any season on my Japan travel blog):

• 2 days in Takayama itinerary
• 2 days in Kanazawa itinerary
• 2 days in Nagano itinerary
• 2 days in Matsumoto itinerary
• Gujo Hachiman day trip itinerary
• Takaragawa Onsen, Gunma review
• Shuzenji Onsen overnight itinerary
• Gala Yuzawa day trip itinerary from Tokyo
• 2 days in Nagasaki itinerary
• Huis Ten Bosch review
• Things no one tells you about winter in Japan
• Hidden gems to discover in Japan off the beaten path

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